Auto Repairs - Professional Training

September 8, 21  2009

The boys wanted to see if they could pick up some basic skills around repairs they would be able to do when they get their first affordable car.  Dave volunteered take on the challenge. He's had many years as a Mechanic and even did call in radio shows on how to tackle car problems. We stated out with something the comes up regularly and is not too challenging, a brake job. 

Daniel Burndorfer provided the vehicle that needed the brake job and Dave picked up the parts for us using his connections. He got the "Auto Value" store down here on Heritage and Bonaventure to give us a great deal . It's his favorite parts store. 

Team Members

Karl Burndorfer, Wayne Johnson - Scout / YM Leaders
Benjamin Burndorfer, Nathan Johnson, Zachary Peterson, Connor Johnson, Daniel Urquiho - Scouts
Ace Mechanic - Dave Torrance

Photo Library

Night One

DSC02651.JPG (2991556 bytes) DSC02652.JPG (2967051 bytes) Applying the mechanical advantage DSC02653.JPG (3016227 bytes) Daniel has a bit more body weight to apply.  DSC02654.JPG (2945951 bytes) Make sure the jack pushes up on the frame. Put blocks behind back wheels.
DSC02655.JPG (2865392 bytes) DSC02658.JPG (3310811 bytes) Put up the tripods on each side on the frame.  DSC02659.JPG (3375591 bytes) All safe and ready to take apart. 
DSC02660.JPG (2706441 bytes) So, check for hose cracks, calipers slide along pins freely, Nipple not seized in place, rotor not too thin or warped. Now we need to spread calipers to allow new fatter pads in. Make sure nipple is open as you pry apart to allow dirty brake fluid out, not back up to the master cylinder.  This will mess up the ABS system if you have one. DSC02661.JPG (3086436 bytes) It's the resin in the pad that causes the glaze (produced by heat). The glaze is what provides the friction. DSC02662.JPG (3082708 bytes) The old one definitely feels like more friction. DSC02663.JPG (2655112 bytes) So that's applying 100 foot pound! Applying 100 pounds 1 foot out from the bolt.
DSC02664.JPG (2935755 bytes) Torque on those lug nuts. Oh and make sure the pretty end goes against the rim! DSC02665.JPG (2591251 bytes) Just checking the job. So we aborted this effort as the calipers were not sliding along pins any more. Caused by excessive heat. Without this movement once the brakes are applied and then released only one side releases. This causes excessive ware on the pad on that side. So brake lesson will resume in 2 weeks with new calipers to install as well. Note on bleeding the brakes. Once we ejected to dirty fluid  by prying apart the pads, we now had to get them bled to get them working again. This was done by having someone press the brakes but only half way down, not all the way to the floor. This is important as you can damage the master cylinder rubbers if the fluid is low.

Night Two

Photo_092209_003.jpg (255515 bytes) So there are Left and right pads for the outside. Who would have guessed. The squeaker tabs give it away though.  Photo_092209_004.jpg (213072 bytes) Divide up the parts and put them with the correct wheel. Photo_092209_005.jpg (245345 bytes) Now drop off the Calipers and disconnect the hose.
DSC02675.JPG (2728093 bytes) DSC02676.JPG (3038578 bytes) DSC02677.JPG (3190032 bytes) DSC02678.JPG (3023459 bytes) Don't forget, there is a copper washer on either side of the hose. New calipers come with brass washers but they are too hard to seat properly, so reuse the copper ones. 
DSC02679.JPG (2726641 bytes) Make sure the rotors are marked so they can back on in the right position. Clean out any chunks as we need to have a flush fit when we bolt it back on.  DSC02680.JPG (2991580 bytes) So if you happen to get a small rust chunk etc between the rotor and the base when you bolt it back on,  the rotor will shimmy back and forth and when you apply the brakes you'll feel the shaking.  DSC02681.JPG (2790933 bytes) DSC02682.JPG (3120146 bytes) Bolt the calipers back on. Don't forget to take out the protector plastic from the hole for attaching the hose. Undo the nipple and lubricate with brake fluid and then screw it back in. This keeps them coated with oil so they won't rust into calipers. 
DSC02683.JPG (2652885 bytes) Get some brake fluid back in and try a gravity feed bleed job.  DSC02684.JPG (3083630 bytes) Open the nipple and wait for the fluid to stat coming out. If it's not clear let the dirty fluid pass trough as well.  DSC02685.JPG (2906692 bytes) DSC02688.JPG (2864063 bytes)
DSC02689.JPG (3198126 bytes) Just  DSC02690.JPG (2866421 bytes) Now just torque those nuts back on and we are done!  Thanks Dave, you're the best, and thanks Auto Value, appreciate the deal.  Scouts have limited budgets so now we can buy more hotdogs and marshmallows for the campfire.